A remarkable blend of simplicity and highly advanced D-SLR capabilities, the compact and powerful D5000 offers breathtaking 12.3-megapixel image quality, along with a flexible, Vari-angle, Live View monitor for fresh picture-taking perspectives. Nikon’s EXPEED image processing further enhances performance, contributing to split-second shutter response and continuous shooting at up to 4 frames-per-second to capture fast action and precise moments perfectly.

A remarkable blend of simplicity and highly-advanced DSLR capabilities, the compact and powerful D5000 offers breathtaking 12.3-megapixel image quality, along with a flexible, Vari-angle, Live View monitor for fresh picture-taking perspectives. Nikon’s EXPEED image processing further enhances performance, contributing to split-second shutter response and continuous shooting at up to 4 frames-per-second to capture fast action and precise moments perfectly.

The D5000’s 24-fps HD D-Movie mode with sound captures video clips with amazing clarity–offering new and exciting creative opportunities. Fast, accurate 11-point autofocus with 3D Tracking, teamed with famous NIKKOR optics, assures incredible image sharpness, while active image sensor cleaning combats annoying dust automatically. Featuring a convenient built-in flash, 19 automatic exposure Scene Modes to make the impossible easy and 23 Custom Setting options to fit your preferences, as well as 14 in-camera image retouching functions, the D5000 is the perfect DSLR, beginning with performance to meet your picture-taking tomorrows.

Outfit includes the 3x AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens with image stabilization and legendary NIKKOR optical quality.

Customer Review

Great Camera. If you are new to the DSLR game (like myself) or you are upgrading and you can fork up the cash, it is definitely worth it. It has a very concise, simple, and easy to use interface, the buttons are very well placed, and the swivel LCD is very nice and useful in certain situations (I really like how it folds inwards to protect the screen). My main purpose for this camera is still photos so the video is a cool bonus and is surprisingly better than I thought (though if you are looking to do serious HD video, I’d go for an HD camcorder or something else instead).

The D5000 is essentially a D90 squeezed into a smaller lighter body (of course it lacks the internal AF motor, doesn’t have as good a grip, and has a slightly smaller pentamirror viewfinder instead of the pentaprism in the D90 – all of this amongst a few other things, but hey it’s cheaper for a reason – also it is mentionable that the D5000 has an additional live view mode, a few more in camera editing tools, and more scene modes compared to the D90 – all useful for someone new to the DSLR in the sense that you can learn from them or just use them to make your life easier and your photos look great).

Charging Batteries is one of the biggest stumbling blocks you’ll face when you travel. Outlets can be scarce in hotels. Charging your battery can be more of a hassle if you’re traveling by train: If you take an overnight train in Europe, they don’t have power adapters at the seats (certain trains do, but it’s not something you can count on). I suggest bringing at least two rechargeable batteries, three if you plan to travel with overnight trains, or don’t think you’ll be able to charge every night. If your camera uses regular AA batteries, consider yourself lucky-you’ll find those everywhere. Bring your plugs. Some digital cameras typically come with a power brick that can handle international voltages, so you won’t need a voltage adapter. However, you will need a power plug adapter to convert a US outlet plug to the local plug. “I’m not shooting at the best resolution, because I need the room on my memory card.” A 1 GB card is very useful, and should suffice for low-usage shooters.

What I discovered is many who had digital SLRs, that had 5 megapixel or more reported they were traveling with a laptop to off load their images. If you’re first buying a laptop, and intend to travel with it, I suggest going for the smallest one you can. Most newer laptops have integrated memory card readers, but otherwise, you can buy a small external card reader. For the wire-free approach, use a PC Card slot adapter for your memory card; and invest in a 32-bit Cardbus adapter (Delkin and Lexar Media offer these), for speedier transfers. If you bring a laptop, I also suggest investing in a portable hard drive.

If you don’t want to bring a laptop, and already have an Apple iPod, Belkin sells an attachment for using your iPod with memory cards; or, consider the pricey units from Nikon and Epson. And if you’re in a bind, remember you can always buy memory overseas.

Cards were more readily available, too, than they were when I last traveled through Europe three years ago. I never had problems with my 35mm SLR, but with my digital SLR, I constantly find dirt gets trapped inside, when I change lenses.

A digital point and shoot is a good option but I usually carry a point and shoot 35mm to use if I run into any problems just so I won’t lose any precious pictures.

Digital cameras have shutters, too. They can have either a mechanical shutter, which opens and closes to expose the sensor, or an electronic shutter, which simulates the same process. Many digital camera have both types of shutter, relying on a mechanical shutter for relatively longer exposures (usually 1/500th second to more than a second long), plus an electronic shutter for higher shutter speeds that are difficult to attain with mechanical shutters alone. (That’s why you’ll find digital cameras with shutter speeds as high as 1/16,000th second: they’re electronic.) Mechanical shutters can work with any kind of sensor. Some special flash systems can synchronize with electronic shutters at higher speeds.

The type of electronic shutter your camera has depends a great deal on the kind of sensor that is built into your camera. Both terms deal with how the sensor captures an image. The interline sensor, developed originally for video cameras, isolates an entire image in one instant, and then gradually shifts it off the chip into the camera electronics for processing and conversion from an analog signal to digital format. The two sensors exchange places so that the previously masked sensor can then accept light while the sensor that was previously exposed is shielded so it can offload its image to the camera’s electronics. A full-frame sensor (not to be confused with full-frame sensor size), in contrast, is a single sensor that cannot isolate an image while it is still exposed to light. to the camera’s electronics. If the sensor is still exposed to light when an image is moved from the chip, the image will be smeared by illumination that strikes the photosites while the old image is being shifted. That calls for a mechanical shutter.