Archive for August 2011
Choosing the right lens
There are many types of camera lenses you can buy for your SLR digital camera. A prime lens has a fixed focal length and is fast, bright and usually high quality. A zoom lens lets you select from various focal lengths. These lenses are slower and their photos tend to have more noise and aberrations.
Choosing a Lens
The flexibility of being able to use a variety of camera lens is one of the key features of a digital SLR camera. The camera is only part of the picture that you take. The lens itself is very important in how every photo looks that you take. If you are taking a lot of sports action photos, you will want one type of lens. If you are taking a great deal of wildlife or nature pictures, you would probably want another type.
You can purchase two basic types of lens:
- Prime: These lenses have fixed focal lengths, are fast and bright, and are extremely high quality. They are designed for only 1 focal length.
- Zoom: These allow you to choose from many focal lengths, making this lens more versatile. However, zoom lenses are not as fast, and there are more aberrations in their photos than with prime lenses.
Many SLRs now come with a standard zoom camera lens that ranges from 35-70mm, or 28-55mm.
In prime lenses, the basic ones are:
- Standard (50 mm): This is the lens that will come with most SLRs. This is a lens for general picture shooting, and gives you a view that is similar to that of the human eye. These are compact and lightweight, and provide nice, sharp images.
- Wide Angle: (less than 50mm): People who shoot landscapes, wildlife and outdoors usually select a wide angle lens. One of these lenses gives you a depth of field that is very deep, so you do not need to adjust your focus all the time.
- Medium Telephoto (85-135mm): This is the lens of choice for a portrait. This one will isolate the subject of your picture more from the surroundings. The greater focal length also will flatten the image somewhat.
- Long Telephoto (more than 135mm): This is what you use for sports shots, or other types of shots where you have to have an up close image but you cannot actually be physically up close.
If you want a zoom camera lens, consider one of these:
The Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II is a starter lens and does not do everything well. However it is quite a good value if purchased with an SLR camera. It is often the lens paired with many entry level SLRs. It is inexpensive, small and very light. It has pretty good image stabilization and has a good focal length range for general purposes. This camera lens will function fairly well in a low light setting, as long as the subjects are not in motion. This lens is fairly slow, meaning that the aperture is narrow.
The Canon EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8 IS USM has a fixed, fast aperture of f/2.8, extremely superior image quality, as well as image stabilization with three stops. This is one of the best general purposes lenses on the market. This lens has many great features, very high image quality and is the choice of many amateur and professional photographers.
How to Properly Protect Your New iPad
There is a new inclusion to the Apple family, the iPad. This new revolutionary addition to the incredible line of digital gadgets is greater than the iPhone yet more light-weight than the Macbook. It has made its way to the world of mobile gadgets. It is fit for both company and home users. And it can very easily load external software from the Apple iTunes Store. Nonetheless, no matter how wonderful the iPad is, once it is broken, there is nothing else you can do about it. So to prevent such thing to come about, you will have to provide it with the essential protective casing like iPad case to safeguard it from all forms of damages such as external bumps and scratches.
Because of its large screen and delicate aluminium case, it is most likely at risk of busting and of several exterior damages. You will end up losing your money.
Following are basic and inexpensive tips to protect your iPad from damages.
Screen Safety
The iPad has a bigger screen in contrast to that of an iPhone. So there is a increased chance that your iPad will be vulnerable to screen scratches and will have greasy fingerprint marks. In order to keep away from these, a distinct and thin scratch proof screen protector will solve your troubles. Just put the thin screen over the face of the iPad. There are quite a few kinds of screen protectors readily available, choose the best that presents the best amount of safety for the iPad.
External Safety
Mainly because of the measurement of the iPad, there is a need that you handle it with both hands. But there is a chance that it will unintentionally slip from your hand if not handled meticulously. You can keep away from dropping your iPad with the use of a silicon iPad case. This will enable you to get a great grip of your iPad. You may also try obtaining a plastic case for a superior shock resistance. A selection of iPad cases are readily available for you to choose from.
It is amazing how these high technologies make life less difficult for us particularly in terms of our work. But it will require to keep up with the good demands of everyday lives. Provide it with the right and necessary protection to stay away from harmful aspects such as screen scratches and external bumps.
You can pay a visit to IpadCase.com.au for more options of iPad cases today!
Know your lens.
I have three devices that have the capability of taking photos: a cell phone, a Kodak EasyShare and a Canon SLR. The Canon is essentially a vacation camera for me; when I leave New York for longer than a day it comes with me. The Kodak (a pocket-sized point-and shoot) was my first real digital camera. At 8 megapixels it took the clearest photos I’d ever seen before upgrading to my SLR camera. The Kodak was also my “going out” camera, the one that I’d take to parties, gatherings and weekends with friends. I used this camera almost exclusively around town until I upgraded my cell phone to a smartphone about a year and a half ago. While the megapixel quality (5) didn’t touch that of my two “real” cameras, I loved the portability of carrying only one device. What became almost instantly noticeable to me was not the clear differences in the quality of the photos . . . I mean, you’d automatically assume the difference between the three would be completely different. What I realized was that the difference in clarity did not necessary have to mean quality.
It has been said throughout the lifetime of the camera that the quality of a picture isn’t about the device, but the photographer. A great photographer can get you something out of a low-end camera better than a novice on a high-end device if he or she adheres to certain fundamental laws of quality picture-taking. In the past couple of summers I’ve taken this to a new level of art—I actually love seeing how much I can squeeze out of lesser cameras. By simply understanding the stock lens of your picture-taking device, you inherently understand so much about what it can and can’t do. Does your lens bring out the best in cool tones? Take morning pictures and play in the winter. Warm tones? Summertime rules, so go to the beach or stay outside as much as possible. Does your lens have a special knack for picking up artificial lights? Objects under streetlamps at night become majestic.
Of course, it also helps to understand your ISO and shutter settings, but if you’re either a true novice or if you really want to understand what your camera can do on its own, stick to environments that don’t require a flash and adjust your contrast and saturation settings as needed. Pretend AUTO is a bad word, and while you shoot remember that your goal isn’t necessarily to take good pictures, but to understand what your camera can and can’t do. Because once you really understand what it can do, it won’t matter what you’re shooting with.
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Looking to solve the Red Eye Problem
Why Photos come out with Red eyes?
Who hasn’t seen those photographs with the red devil eyes staring back at them. What causes red eye to occur in photos? Red eye happens when light enters the eye. Picture a V shape - this is how light is reflected. It reflects at an angle that is equal to and opposite to the point of entry. So if you have a large amount of light entering the eye and there isn’t a great enough angle then it will cause a red eye effect, this is why you get it allot more when you use flash.
The photos with red eyes are taken at night using a flash. And the reflecting light from the eye is what you call the classic red eye affect. This doesn’t just happen to humans, it also effects animals as well.
In animals it happens because the animals have a special reflective layer on the retina called the tapetum lucidum. This is just like a mirror at the back of the eye. If a headlight or flashlight is shone into the eyes in the dark of the night, the eyes shine back with a white light.
Humans do not have the tapetum lucidum layer on the retina. So even if you got a light an it hit a human eye at night you would not get a white light shining back. However, the camera flash is very bright, so it causes a reflection to occur of the retina. This results in red eye because the blood vessels are nourishing the eyes.
You might have notices that some cameras flash twice? This is because it has red eye reduction. It will go off once just prior to the photo being taken, and then again during the picture being taken. The first flash will cause the person’s pupils to contract and this reduces red eye a great deal. One other trick you can use is to turn the lights on in a room, which will let the pupil contract.
If you can move th eflash away from the len then you will also get the same affect. you might have just said what? In your head and this is because allot of the point and shoot cameras have no flash adjustments. As a result the reflection is bounced back to the camera’s lens and this results in red eye on your photos. If you had a professional camera then you would be able to hold the flash a couple of feet from the camera and this would give you a better shot, you might have seen something like this in the 1900′s or at a professional photo taker. Another sort of home made trick is to get the flash to bounce of the ceiling.
If you have a camera with no flash adjustment, most of the digital software packages allow you to correct red eye. It’s a pretty simply process. Usually it’s just a matter of clicking on the eye and then the correct red eye icon. Just follow the instructions provided with your software.
Many of the newest point and click digital cameras have a setting that reduces red eye. Read your manual to see if your camera has this setting and how to activate from the menu system.
Those devilish red eyes no longer have to be something you contend with on your photographs now that you have some ideas on just how to reduce or eliminate red eye.
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Taking a better photo, Top ten
Looking at the photo taking tips top 10
Taking good photos doesn’t have to be difficult. In fact, these 10 tips to taking a photo will have you shooting great pics each and every time.
1. Get Close
If your subject appears to be smaller than a vehicle you need to step closer before you snap the picture. If you can’t step to much closer then you have the zoom option. You want to fill the picture area with whatever the subject is you are taking the picture of. Make sure you get really close it make the photo seem more alive.
2. Make sure your in Eye contact.
In real life if you look into someones eyes then you become engaged. and this also applies to the photo. When you are taking a portrait hold the camera so it’s at eye level to the person you are taking a picture. make sure that you get all those beautiful eyes. If you are shooting children then get down to their level. make sure you look into there eyes.
3. Making use of Flash outside.
Everyone knows you often need to use a flash indoors but few think about using a flash outside. Using your flash outside will reduce/eliminate shadows because it lightens the face. I know it might sound wierd but even on sunny day your flash should still be on. You might have a camera that will allow you to set your flash to full flash or fill flash. Use the fill flash if you are within 5 feet of your subject, and use the full flash if you are further than 5 feet. On a cloudy day use the fill flash.
4. Try to get a background that is plain and not to distrating.
By picking a background your subject is going to stand out allot better. When you are looking in your viewfinder take the time to study the surrounding area around your subject. Make sure there is nothing ugly in the background like cars on the street or bins etc.
5. Making sure your Focused.
If your target isn’t in the middle make sure you lock focus, and this will allow you to have a sharp image. The majority of auto focus cameras will focus on whatever is in the center of the picture.
6. Move Your Subject from the Middle Allot of people when taking photos will allways place there subject into the middle of the photo to get the best result and this isn’t always the case. Just imagen your veiw finder in a third grid. Now put your subject into one of the intersections. If your camera has auto focus you will need to lock the focus so that the camera doesn’t focus on the center of the viewfinder.
7. Make sure your Eye stays on the light. Few would argue that the subject is the most important component to your picture but the light is the next most important element. The light affects how everything in your photo will look. If your took a photo of your old grand mother in the sunlight you will get more wrinkles on here face,compared to reducing the light on her. Play with your lighting until you understand how different lighting affects different subjects.
8. Understand Your Flash’s Range
The most common mistake made with the flash is being out of range. if you take a picture without being in range of the target then your photo will be to dark. In many cameras the maximum range of the flash is less than 15 feet, which is about 5 steps. You can look up your camera’s flash range in the manual.
9. Play Director
Put on your director’s hat, take control of your photo shoot, and watch how your pictures improve. Tell people what you want. For example, everyone look up to the sky or everyone hug. Take control!
10. Take Some Pictures Vertical
If you never turn your camera vertical now’s the perfect time to start doing so. For those taller than average subjects you can get a much better picture when taken vertically.
There you have it. Follow these 10 tips and you’ll be taking great pictures in no time at all.